Pat's Blog

Humming a few bars of ‘Singing in the Rain’, I was in a pretty good mood as I skipped into JC’s office. And then I thought, gee, there are some things will never change around here … The secretary was painting her nails, blowing them once in a while. A fan rattled in the corner and JC had his feet up on the desk listening to a horse race.


“What’s the big assignment boss?” I asked, taking off my cap and bicycle trouser clips.

‘Ahhh don’t sit down, you’ll be leaving soon.’‘Vegetarians in Kagawa’ he sniffed and said, leaving his feet up …
‘Yes, Vegetarians in Kagawa’.
‘Think you can handle it?’‘Not fool around looking for cheap laughs and free meals? Make it interesting?’‘Dig up some info?’


“Why of course I can! This is right up my alley JC!” I used to be a vegetarian for years.”

“Besides, this week the only pressing social engagement I have is the Enchantment Under the Sea Dance” so I’ll have it done pronto.”


And I was a vegetarian too. Honestly, I was. I’ve given it up for a while, as it was too hard for my long-suffering wife to make separate meals for me three times a day. The family has never been into it and I’ve never tried to coerce them. When things settle down I’ll return to a lacto (milk and eggs) vegetarian lifestyle, as I felt better for it and all things considered, it’s just better for the planet.


Some years ago, on retreats in a Buddhist temple kitchen in Okayama Prefecture I learned a little about Buddhist vegetarian cooking because I had to help out as a participant in these retreats a couple of times a year. Once every three days it was my turn to work in the kitchen and help the head cook. I’m no longer interested in doing retreats at all I should add. But the food I really do miss.


Retreats are silent affairs with 3:00 AM starts and last 7 or sometimes 9 days and the meals were a little spartan but great. There was a ‘no talking’ rule at all times and nothing fancy to eat. Traditional ‘Shojin Ryori’ vegetarian was the type of food we ate. This was often rice gruel based and typical temple food. Lots of tofu, sautéed eggplants in zesty garnishes, piles of genmai (brown rice) which is really good for you, topped with ground sesame seed and a pickled plum on top.


So here’s the good news: there’s no need to do a retreat for the experience, as my old friend Nishimura san has a mountain retreat center he pretty much built himself near a hot spring town called Shionue. By invitation, Nishimura san offers an afternoon of tea; quiet meditation and a meal cooked the same way in temples 700 years ago. These events are held periodically throughout the year and should you wish to attend, either contact me through the letters link on this page or to Nishimura san on his web site.

http://www.geocities.jp/ajiminatobansyo/


I should point out that he also has a great and inexpensive restaurant in Aji, a short drive out of Takamatsu and the food is not all vegetarian but pretty delicious. The restaurant is by application for a guest list sent out once a month. Here’s some information in Japanese on the above link for you. (don’t forget to click the top right button on the page for the map)







Being a lacto-vegetarian, vegetarian or vegan can be a tough lifestyle option for foreigners here, simply because there are so few vegetarians in the land where just a 100 years ago, everyone once was. I used to buy a lot of meat substitutes from the Japan Vegetarian Society’s links. The society itself is a pretty lame and dull affair. Perhaps more about the nice idea of vegetarianism rather than anything practical. Here’s the link anyway for what it’s worth.

http://www.jpvs.org/Eng/ep1/index-eng.html


Please don’t hold your breath waiting for an answer from these people. Z-z-z-z-z-z …S-n-n-x-x-x-x-x …

So in Kagawa we have to think not about vegetarian restaurants as such but rather restaurants that have vegetarian menus. There are some places here in Takamatsu that do offer good vegetarian food and this is yet another improvement from a few years ago. I remember one dreadful place that advertized ‘vegetarian menu’, expensive too, when I went out for a meal with some non-vegetarian friends. All they served up for me were boring salads with a couple of fried onion rings artfully arranged. Rabbit food. Things have improved markedly since then.


Be positive Pat! OK, here’s a really, really great vegetarian restaurant in Zentsuji a little ways from Takamatsu. These people can really cook splendidly and the cuisines, for that’s what they are, fine cuisines, are entirely vegetarian. I highly recommend this restaurant, which is rather inexpensive and serves delicious vegetarian fare.

http://www.paysan.jp/kagawa/



Thali Spice (Indian restaurant) has a cheap, good vegetarian selection and is in the Food Court on the 2nd floor of the YouMe Town shopping center near Takamatsu.

Aeon Shopping Center on the outskirts of Takamatsu also has a semi-vegetarian restaurant on the ground (1st) floor.

But for me, the best deal for nosebag feed of various vegetarian foods although not strictly a vegetarian restaurant, is this one; Yasashi Shokutaku on the 3rd floor and located in Marugame Machi shopping arcade, just down from the dome I wrote about a few weeks ago. Here you’ll find great fried tofu, lots of beans, lentils all kinds of cooked and raw vegetables. You can even chose your own vegetables and the chefs will prepare them to your own taste.













Anyway, getting a supply of fresh vegetables is also important if you’re going to cook vegetarian and rather than supermarkets, farmers’ markets (fureai ichiba in Takamatsu) (ふれあい市場高松）are the best bet. There are a few around Takamatsu and if you cut-and-paste the Japanese above and check on Google Maps they’ll appear.







And keep all them cards and letters comin’ in! I can answer now so I will get back to you for sure.



Cathy Hirano and Chris Gaskett both living in Takamatsu have kindly supplied me with some additional information listed below. I hope you’ll take the time to look at Cathy’s informative blog.

http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/e273179.html



Macrobiotic restaurant; Fukuroku Chaya. It serves brown rice and no meat products at all. Lunch set is 800 yen and macrobiotic curry and rice is 650yen.
Address 2F Hiraga Bldg, Kamei-cho, Takamatsu
Tel: 090-4787-0485
Open: 11:45~14:00
Closed: Sat., Sun, and national holidays
No parking


This site has a map

http://www.e-komachi.com/web/gourmet/detail.asp?tnid=30698



“And this site has a photo of the outside plus kuchi komi in Japanese.”

http://r.tabelog.com/kagawa/A3701/A370101/37002846/dtlrvwlst/908081/

Thanks Cathy!



Vegetarian Friendly Restaurants in Takamatsu

http://www.reviewmylife.co.uk/blog/2010/02/06/vegetarian-friendly-restaurants-in-takamatsu-japan/

Thanks Chris!



  

METHODS OF ISLAND TRANSPORTATION

Still smarting about my editor JC’s most recent and blatant incident, and miffed that the man was in all likelihood toasting ferries in the inland sea again today and with free good wine and enjoying free, excellent food. (readers refer to my blog entitled Shikoku Ferry Services 8/4) I boarded the little red ‘Meon’ ferry from Takamatsu and short ride for a look at Ogi Island and write the new blog on this lovely place. What a terrific little ferryboat and ferryboat ride this is. Like a little toy ferryboat actually.


In a word, ‘hilly’. This beautiful, small island in the Inland Sea not far from Takamatsu is just that; plenty of sharp inclinations. Apart from the foreshore area, there are some pretty steep hills but the good news is the treks are not that long. So what I want to suggest to you as something to observe when here, are the unique methods of transportation some of the islanders use. I spent most of the day lurching from vending machine to vending machine looking for cold drinks. I had some colorful language to say when a couple were out of stock I can tell you.


Long a car hater, bicycle-rider, alternative methods of transportation have fascinated me and one of my first and most endearing sights in Japan was of an elderly couple riding a 3 wheeled bicycle with a flat tray side for carrying goods, a bit like a motorcycle sidecar and probably transportation from an earlier era. The woman, one hand on her hat, pushing the pedals hard; all the while the aged husband was sitting seiza (kneeling position) on the flatbed tray fanning himself unperturbed. Huffing and puffing she was too. If I ever see this again as it’s not that uncommon, I hope I can grab a photo and post a picture of it here.






I asked a couple of people but no one could tell me the names of these machines save that they’re low-geared, slowish which is fine by me and have two-stroke engines much like my old lawn mower. Some serve as taxis and frankly they look like fun to get about in. Reversing is easy. Just rotate the handle 180 degrees and it can go in the opposite direction. No doubt about it, living here one needs some support mechanical or otherwise. Even a stick is useful.





Bicycles are sometimes used on the island, as are tricycles with shopping baskets usually at the back but as the only ride-able place is the foreshore, most just walk around.



On the Meon ferry I ran into my rival Ashita Sanuki blogger, well treated by editor JC and old and good friend Cathy Hirano which was a surprise. “Oh, hi Cathy. Great to see you”! I lied. Alright, I made that up we were happy to see each other and I suggest that you take a look at her interesting blog as she’s going to give you more detailed information about how to get around this island so please do take a look …

http://cathy.ashita-sanuki.jp/e273179.html

The multi functional ‘onba’ or stroller is another feature of assisted transportation on this island of mainly elderly people. As the majority of the islands residents are aged so the onba can carry stuff, be used for support whilst walking on unsteady legs and as a bonus, also functions as a seat when taking a break! They’re even used for deliveries which must be wonderful for exercise.



The onba has recently been turned into a tongue-in-cheek art icon and we can see some really adventurous creations on the onba theme from the Onba Factory, which is a part of this Seto Art Exhibition. Witty and creative stuff indeed.



At last the heat is slowly waning but if you’re heading out to any of these places in the summer even at the end of it, it’s wise to cover the body or use a parasol.



This is me hard at it in the broiling sun working for JC and here I am in the last picture. Completely evaporated! Kerpoooof! That’s all that was left of the underpaid and intrepid blogger after a day in the sun …
Keep all those cards, letters and comments coming in and do visit Ogi Island when you have the chance, it’s well worth it.